A Lake and Mountain-Lover’s Dream in Alberta, Canada

Banff was on my bucket list for years. From the moment I saw a picture of Moraine Lake’s impossibly turquoise water, I knew I had to go. My husband and I decided to take advantage of being that much closer to Alberta (the province that Banff is in) while living in Denver and went for the first time in August of 2018. We loved it so much we went back a second time in February of 2019, and my husband has even been back a third with a friend. I love Canada. The people are kind, the prices are reasonable, and the lakes and mountains in and around Banff are the most beautiful I’ve ever seen, bar none. If you love hiking, skiing, fishing, or exploring insanely gorgeous places, add Banff to your bucket list ASAP.

A Few Things to Note:

We spent four nights in Banff both times we visited and while that never seems like enough time because this place is so incredibly beautiful and there’s so much to explore, we were able to pack plenty into each visit
With that being said, we did fly from Denver to Calgary (the closest airport to Banff), which is a much shorter flight (~2 hours) than if you were coming from the East Coast let’s say; if you’re looking at a longer flight time (from Boston it’s almost 5 hours), I might recommend staying a little longer since you lose almost a full day to travel!
You’ll need a rental car to be able to explore the best that Banff and the surrounding area has to offer; half the fun is driving around and taking in the breathtaking scenery

Best Time to Visit Banff

As I mentioned above, we’ve been to Banff in both the summer and the winter, and both seasons are special. While July and August have the warmest weather (high 60s/low 70s), they are usually the most crowded and when hotels are more expensive. We went in August and definitely experienced crowds at some of the more famous attractions (like Moraine Lake), but were also able to get away from the crowds and see next to no people in some places. I’m itching to go in the fall!

We’re big skiers and chose to visit Banff in February for not only optimal ski conditions but also because it’s the perfect time to skate on Lake Louise. By that time of year, the ice is plenty thick/safe enough to skate on and it was one of my favorite memories from the trip (more on that later!)

How to Get to Banff

Fly into Calgary International Airport (YYC). You can get a direct flight from several major cities (including Denver, Chicago, Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Montreal) on Air Canada, WestJet, or United airlines
Rent a car at YYC and drive to Banff. It’s about an hour and a half drive from the Calgary airport to downtown Banff. It reminds me a lot of the drive from Denver out to the various ski resorts off I-70 West. It goes by fast as it’s incredibly scenic!
But seriously: make sure you have your own car! While many hotels will offer shuttle services to and from the airport, it’s worth having your own vehicle to explore all the area has to offer. For example, Moraine and Peyto Lakes (two turquoise glacial lakes) are over an hour from downtown Banff. And like I mentioned above, the scenic drives are an adventure in and of themselves!

Where to Stay in Banff

Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise - This hotel is iconic. And whether you choose to stay here in the summer or the winter, there’s plenty to do right on site. In the summer, you’ll wake up to the turquoise waters of Lake Louise. In the winter, you can ice skate on the lake while enjoying views of the towering Victoria Glacier. In fact, skating on Lake Louise was a highlight of our winter visit to Banff. The hotel sets up an outdoor ice bar where you can sip on warm signature drinks like mulled wine or spiked hot chocolate (in case you need some liquid courage to get on ice skates like I did). Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise is technically in another town (Lake Louise), which is just under an hour from downtown Banff. But since the hotel and lake are destinations in and of themselves, it’s a great home base. We stayed here and skied at Lake Louise Ski Resort, which is less than 15 minutes away.

Ice bar at Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise (February 2019)

Lakeview Patio at Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise (August 2018)

Sunshine Mountain Lodge - This hotel is located at Banff Sunshine (another ski resort) and can only be accessed by a high-speed, eight-passenger gondola. We actually stayed here in the summer and loved it. You park at the base lot and the hotel transports your luggage up to the lodge for you while you ride the gondola. Once on-mountain, you have direct access to 3,500 acres of ski trails in the winter, and Banff National Park’s Sunshine Meadows hiking area in the summer. In the summer, enjoy dining in the lodge’s The Chimney Corner (the poutine is drool-worthy) or The Eagle’s Nest. In the winter, you have to check out Mad Trapper’s for lunch or après (or both).

Sunshine Meadows, accessible via Sunshine Mountain Lodge

Other hotels include…
- Fairmont Banff Springs - We didn’t stay here, but met some friends at the hotel’s Rundle Bar for drinks after dinner one night and it’s beautiful. The hotel also has an award-winning golf course.
- Elk + Avenue Hotel - We stayed here because we received a discount by booking through our Ikon Pass (ski pass). Though nothing fancy, it’s comfortable, affordable, and walking distance to downtown Banff’s shops, restaurants, and nightlife.

Where to Eat & Drink in Banff

Sky Bistro ($$$) - Sadly the restaurant we went to for a romantic Valentine’s Day dinner is temporarily closed, but I did a lot of research beforehand and this one was a top contender! Take the gondola from the base of Sulphur Mountain to the summit for stunning dining views. Note: the gondola is not heated so be sure to dress appropriately in the winter months!
The Balkan ($$$) - If you love Mediterranean food, be sure to check this place out. Located right on Banff Ave, the atmosphere is cozy and the food and drinks are delicious.

Banff Ave Brewing Co ($$) - Great spot in the summer to sit outside and enjoy some craft beer and pub food. Like the name implies, it’s located right on Banff Ave with a great second floor patio.

Things to Do in Banff in the Summer

Visit One (or More) of the Many Turquoise Lakes - These stunning glacial lakes are what put Banff on the map, and no summer visit is complete without seeing at least one (due to time constraints, we could only fit in Moraine Lake and Lake Louise; I can’t wait to go back and see Peyto and Emerald!) Here are some of the most famous:
- Moraine Lake - Note that personal vehicle access is prohibited. You must take a shuttle, and advance booking is recommended.
- Lake Louise
- Peyto Lake
- Emerald Lake

Moraine Lake (and I'm still a huge GoPro fan for adventure travel!)

Fly Fish in Kananaskis Country - Kananaskis Country is an Alberta Park System that borders Banff National Park (where Moraine Lake and Lake Louise are) and Canmore. My husband got me into fly fishing when we lived in Colorado and you could say he turned me into a fly fisherwoman! And Kananaskis is hands-down my favorite place we’ve ever fished. We hired a guide to take us out on the Livingstone River where we dry-fly fished for cutthroat trout. These were some of the prettiest/biggest fish I’ve ever caught in my life, and it was so fun to watch them smash the fly on top of the water (I know, I sound like a professional, right?!)

Cutthroat trout/the best manicure on the Livingstone River in Kananaskis Country

Hike in Banff National Park - Whether you’re exploring Sunshine Meadows, trekking to the Lake Agnes Tea House, or climbing the Big Beehive, there are countless breathtaking hikes in Banff National Park. I honestly wish we had more time to devote to more full-day hikes. So maybe I do take back what I said earlier and four nights isn’t enough! VERY IMPORTANT: Be bear aware! There are grizzlies in this area and yes, you may encounter one (scroll down for our grizzly bear encounter!) Make sure you purchase bear spray, learn how to use it, and keep it with you at all times when hiking or fishing.

Golf - There are some pretty spectacular golf courses in the area, including the one at Fairmont Banff Springs and Silvertip Resort in Canmore (we had lunch here on our drive back to the airport, and it’s less than 30 minutes from downtown Banff).

Things to Do in Banff in the Winter

Ski the Big 3 - SkiBig3 is made up of Banff Sunshine, The Lake Louise Ski Resort, and Mt Norquay. All three mountains are also on the Ikon Pass, which is the ski pass we had when we visited. We skied Banff Sunshine and Lake Louise, and both resorts are stunning. Special shoutout to Mad Trapper’s at Sunshine, the coolest and coziest lunch and après spot. We skied two epic days at Lake Louise—one powder day and one bluebird day—and the terrain is gorgeous. Bier Stube is a great place to grab an après (or lunch) beer. Just a heads up: if you’re used to skiing out west in the States (or even in New England), be prepared to be cold. At Sunshine especially, the average high temperature in February is 23 °F, with an average low of 2°F. Pack layers and hand/toe warmers!

Ice Skate on Lake Louise - As I mentioned above, ice skating on Lake Louise was a highlight of our trip (especially because my husband is a big hockey guy). Every year, the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise constructs an ice bar (from which you can enjoy mulled wine and spiked hot chocolate) and creates two rinks: one for leisurely ice skating and one for pickup hockey games.

Recover From a Day on the Slopes with a Spa Treatment - The spa at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise is heavenly, and a couples massage was the perfect way to relax after a challenging powder day on the slopes. In fact, the hotel is undergoing some renovations including building a new thermal wellness facility. I guess we’ll have to go back in 2025 when it’s complete to check it out…darn!

If one thing is clear from this travel guide, it’s that Banff is a bucket-list destination no matter the season. If you’re ready to experience world-class skiing, hiking, fishing, and more, reach out to me and I’ll help you plan the ultimate Banff vacation! Here are some more favorite photos from our trip:

Trout and about on the Livingstone River in Kananaskis Country

Grizzly bear sighting in Kananaskis Country. This was a baby!

Skating on Lake Louise. Remember when boomerangs were cool?!

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