Aspen Travel Guide
Talkin’ About a Little Place Called Aspen, Colorado
In the words of Lloyd Christmas, Aspen is warm and the beer does flow like wine. But John Denver isn’t full of sh*t and the Rocky Mountains here are particularly rocky. And this little town is really all it’s cracked up to be.
Aspen is my happy place. My husband and I got engaged here, got married here, and have visited eight times over the years. You could say I know a thing or two about the town! While some people might try to tell you it’s overpriced and overrun with celebrities and people more concerned with status than the outdoors, I’ll tell you that’s not true. Aspen is home to world-class skiing, fishing, hiking, biking, and more. For me, the restaurants and shopping are secondary.
If you’re looking for beautiful scenery, a plethora of outdoor activities, and the added bonus of delicious food and luxurious accommodations, then add visiting Aspen to your American West bucket list.
A Few Things to Note
Since I’ve been to Aspen many times, this guide is a compilation of my favorite places to stay, eat, drink, and explore throughout the seasons
I’m not suggesting you can (or should) do all of these things in one visit! It depends where you’re traveling from, how much time off you have, etc. If you live in Colorado, you can absolutely do Aspen in one weekend. If you’re flying in from the East Coast, let’s say, you probably want to give yourself more time (5-7 days at least).
While there’s an airport right in Aspen, I recommend renting a car. There is so much to explore in this area beyond the downtown. That being said, if you’re staying downtown, you can easily walk to the best shops and restaurants, or take the Downtowner (more on that later!)
Best Time to Visit Aspen
Aspen is magical year-round. However, it’s important to note that a lot of restaurants close for the off-season. The off-season is typically from mid-April to early June and mid-October to Thanksgiving/late November. That being said, if you’re not worried about having fewer dining options and more concerned with experiencing popular outdoor attractions with fewer crowds, the off-season is a great time to visit.
March is personally my favorite month to ski in Aspen. You’ll get plenty of fresh powder plus more sunshine. One day you could be skiing through knee-deep powder with plenty of free refills, and the next have the most gorgeous bluebird day while skiing in a light jacket.
If you’re looking to visit Aspen in the warmer/summer months, both end of May/early June and August are great times to visit. The air is dry and very comfortable.
In late spring/early summer, you can expect temperatures in the mid-60s during the day. We went for Memorial Day Weekend one year and were plenty warm enough on our hikes (always ended up shedding a light outer layer!) At night it can get chilly, so be sure to pack sweaters, pants, and a light jacket. A fun thing about this time of year is that there is still snow on the peaks, which makes for a gorgeous contrast against the bright blue sky and comfortable temperatures.
In late July and early August, average temperatures are in the 70s and 80s during the day and in the 60s at night. Even on a cooler day, the sun is strong (remember, you’re at 7,900 ft above sea level), so make sure you wear sunscreen and be prepared to shed layers while hiking!
Fall is a gorgeous time to visit Aspen. While I’m partial to New England’s foliage, seeing the aspens pop off and the mountains blanketed in golden yellow is spectacular. Peak foliage is usually towards the end of September, and while the temperature can get up to 70 during the day, it gets cold at night (can drop to freezing).
How to Get to Aspen
Fly Into Denver International Airport (DEN), rent a car, and drive to Aspen. There are plenty of direct flights into DEN, and the 3-3.5 hour drive out to Aspen is beautiful. One route (and the most efficient) takes you over Independence Pass, on which you'll drive over the Continental Divide (it can be a bit scary if you're afraid of heights!) The other route takes you through Glenwood Canyon, which has different (but equally as beautiful) scenery. My suggestion would be to drive one way there and the other way back! Important note: Independence Pass is closed late October/early November through the Thursday before Memorial Day Weekend (but these dates can vary due to snow conditions). Visit Cotrip for up to date road closures.
Fly Into Aspen/Pitkin County Airport (ASE) and still rent a car! If you’d prefer to skip the drive from Denver, you can fly right into Aspen. But be aware that these flight prices can be significantly higher, and you can only fly direct from eight major US cities (none of which are on the East Coast). As I mentioned above, don’t skip out on the rental car. Even though the airport is only a 10-minute Uber ride from downtown Aspen (and less than 15 minutes from Snowmass), you’ll want to have a car to explore all that this area has to offer.
Make sure you get a 4WD rental car, and try to also snag one with high clearance. Driving in Colorado in the winter (whether you’re driving on I-70 to and from Denver or just around Aspen) requires 4WD. Most of the accidents and resulting traffic are caused by inexperienced tourists with inadequate vehicles. Do yourself a favor and spend the extra money to stay safe. One winter we were driving back to Denver from Aspen (we lived in Denver at the time) and we were maybe 10 cars back from an avalanche on I-70! Luckily no one was hurt and rescue crews were able to dig all cars out of the snow, but what should have been a four-hour drive took eight hours. So…be prepared/patient! Also, in the summer, some of the best trails require a bit of off-roading to reach the trailhead. That’s why it’s also not a bad idea to get a high-clearance vehicle.
Where to Stay in Aspen
I’ll state the obvious and say that staying in Aspen can be pricy. However, if you plan your trip and book your accommodations far enough in advance, there are plenty of affordable options. In general, that’s how I plan my vacations: the sooner you can book flights, accommodations, reservations, excursions, etc., the better chance you’ll have at more reasonable prices and exclusive experiences. Note that most hotels are more expensive in the winter. Here is an honest review of everywhere we’ve stayed in and around Aspen:
Downtown Aspen
Aspen Square Condominium Hotel ($$$) - This hotel is centrally located in Aspen and is great for groups of 4-6. Each room has a fully equipped kitchen and private balcony or patio. The hotel also has an outdoor heated swimming pool and two hot tubs. Pets are not allowed (with the exception of service animals).
MOLLIE Aspen (formerly Molly Gibson Lodge) ($$) - This hotel is centrally located in Aspen and recently underwent a major renovation. They have a rooftop pool and in-house breakfast, a restaurant, and bar. The hotel is pet-friendly (for a $50/night fee, capped at $150/stay). We stayed here the weekend we got engaged with our Bernese Mountain Dog, Boris, so it will always hold special memories!
Book with me for complimentary daily breakfast for two, room upgrade, a welcome amenity, hotel credit, and more!
Annabelle Inn ($$) - This cozy inn has 35 rooms, each with their own unique, rustic decor (some rooms even have a fireplace). Amenities include complimentary breakfast and two hot tubs. We stayed here one winter and one of my favorite memories was enjoying a glass of wine in the hot tub as it snowed. Winter in Aspen really is magical! While a tiny bit of a walk to the base of Aspen Mountain, you can call the Downtowner to take you (and your ski gear) there. See the Helpful Aspen Tips section for more info on the Downtowner! Pets are not allowed.
Hotel Durant ($$) - Described as “intimate lodging that doesn’t require a CEO’s budget” by Ski.com, Hotel Durant is another centrally-located, affordable option. The rooms are spacious and well-decorated, and ours had a balcony with views of Aspen Mountain. Amenities include a hot tub, continental breakfast, and complimentary wine, cheese, and fresh-baked chocolate chip cookies during après ski season. Pets are not allowed.
Aspen Mountain Lodge ($$) - This is one of the most affordable accommodations in downtown Aspen. The rooms are modest but comfortable, and it’s an easy walk to all the best restaurants, shops, and the base of Aspen Mountain. It’s near Annabelle Inn, so you can always call the Downtowner in the winter if you don’t want to carry all of your ski stuff to the lift/gondola. This hotel only has a handful of pet-friendly rooms and you’ll have to pay a nightly fee.
The St. Regis Aspen ($$$$) - This is a splurge-worthy stay (we stayed here for our wedding weekend). However, the rooms and grounds are beautiful, the spa is one of the best I’ve been to, the food and drinks are delicious, and the service is wonderful. And to top it all off, they have a resident Bernese Mountain Dog! His name is Kitty, and he’s named after John Jacob Astor IV’s family dog (he was the founder of St. Regis hotels). Kitty regularly roams around the hotel, attends the daily champagne sabering (a St. Regis tradition), and you can even have him read your children a bedtime story and tuck them in at night. I think it’s time to find Boris a similar job here in Vermont! Anyways, the pool is beautiful and was the perfect place to unwind with some Bloody Mary’s the day after our wedding. The spa—named the best in Aspen by Travel + Leisure—has a large menu of treatments to choose from, and even has an oxygen lounge to enjoy before or after spa services and acclimate to the elevation. The hotel is dog-friendly ($100/stay plus a $25/night cleaning fee).
Book with me for complimentary daily breakfast for two, room upgrade, a personalize welcome amenity, hotel credit, and more!
Snowmass
Viewline Resort Snowmass (formerly Westin Snowmass) ($$) - Part of Marriott’s Autograph collection, this is the hotel we stayed in the first time we ever visited Aspen! My husband is a Marriott Bonvoy member, so two of the times we stayed here we coincidentally got upgraded to the same corner room, which was pretty funny. It’s a ski-in/ski-out hotel located directly on the slopes of Snowmass. But even in the summer, it’s a great location. They have multiple slope-side hot tubs to relax in after a day of hiking or skiing, and easy access to plenty of restaurants in the village (we liked the pizza from il Poggio and Fuel serves breakfast sandwiches and burritos all day). In the summer, be sure to check out The Snowmass Free Concert series where you can enjoy live music and a gorgeous mountain sunset. Venga Venga is a great spot to listen to the music slope-side with some margaritas. The hotel is pet-friendly but only for dogs up to 35 lbs ($150/stay). Sorry, Boris!
Book with me for complimentary daily breakfast for two, room upgrade, a welcome amenity, and more!
Rent an Airbnb - Airbnbs in/near downtown Aspen can be pretty pricy. If you’re traveling with a large group, I’ve found more affordable (and super gorgeous) options in and around Snowmass. My parents rented this spot for our wedding week and it was the perfect place for the girls to get ready and take some pre-wedding photos out on the deck while enjoying the panoramic views. Just be aware that the traffic on state highway 82 between the airport and downtown Aspen can get pretty bad, which can tack on extra time to the drive from Snowmass. If you’re staying in Snowmass Village and heading to downtown Aspen, Owl Creek Road is a bit of a shortcut.
Where to Eat & Drink in Aspen
Pine Creek Cookhouse ($$$) - I had to put this restaurant first because it’s where my husband and I got married! That and because it’s truly a dining experience. The 12-mile drive to Pine Creek Cookhouse down Castle Creek Road is beautiful. And as you pull up to the parking lot, you’re greeted by the most jaw-dropping view of the Elk Mountains. The restaurant itself is a rustic dream. Inside you’ll find antler chandeliers and exposed-wood beams, and outside you’ll find a wildflower-surrounded patio with beautiful views. The menu changes seasonally, but some of my favorites include the smoked trout dip, sweet corn bisque, strip steak sandwich, and the seasonal risotto. Our guests were literally licking their plates at our wedding. In the winter, you can only access the restaurant by cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, or riding in a horse-drawn sleigh. Though we’ve dined here several times in the summer, it’s at the top of our bucket list to do the sleigh ride to dinner in the winter!
French Alpine Bistro ($$$) - French Alpine Bistro is our favorite restaurant in Aspen. My husband and I have celebrated a lot of special occasions here, including our engagement. It’s self-described as a charming hideaway and is the perfect spot to cozy up in the winter. In the summer, they have outdoor tables upstairs on the street level. The menu has classic French staples like french onion soup, escargots, cheese fondue, and crêpes, and their Truffle Gnocchi-flette (black truffle gnocchi) is to die for. I order it every single time we go. Add in a mix of creative and classic cocktails and an expansive wine list and you have the best dinner spot (in my opinion of course) in Aspen.
Ajax Tavern ($$) - Controversial statement: while a lot of travel blogs say the J-Bar or White House Tavern have the best burger in town, I respectfully disagree and think Ajax Tavern’s takes the cake. Part of The Little Nell hotel (book with me for exclusive perks here!), Ajax Tavern has an expansive patio and outdoor bar at the foot of Aspen Mountain beside Silver Queen Gondola. It’s a locally-sourced wagyu double cheeseburger topped with an onion aioli and served with truffle fries (my kryptonite). And dining outdoors at Ajax Tavern isn’t just for the summer; it’s a great spot to enjoy après after a great day on Aspen Mountain. This is where I fell in love with Aperol spritzes (they have good ones).
Casa Tua ($$$) - If you’re looking for delicious Italian food and a great outdoor dining/people-watching spot, be sure to check out Casa Tua. They have sister restaurants all over the world, and any of their pastas with truffle are divine (in case you haven’t sensed a trend, I love black truffle).
Betula ($$$) - Their menu features a blend of French Pan-American cuisine and I had a delicious risotto special with (you guessed it) shaved black truffles. This was our first meal out as husband and wife the day after our wedding!
Mi Chola ($$) - If you’re looking for a more casual restaurant, we love this Mexican spot. They have a great outdoor patio that overlooks East Main Street and a chic interior. We love their chimichanga and no visit is complete without a pitcher of margaritas.
Aspen Brewing Company ($$) - We love this craft brewery that also serves cocktails, small bites, and pizza. They’ve got a great little patio with views of Aspen Mountain. This is another go-to spot for a casual meal.
Mawa’s Kitchen ($$$) - This Michelin-recognized restaurant is located a bit outside of town (across 82 from the airport), but is absolutely worth the short drive. It’s owned and operated by Mawa McQueen and is the area’s only black-owned restaurant. The cuisine is Latin food “with an African flair;” we ordered the Truffled Yuca Fries (shocking, I know) and the Vegetable Maffe with chicken (a West African peanut curry dish), and both were divine.
Matsuhisa ($$$$) - If you love sushi, it’s worth checking this high-end spot off your list. In fact, it’s the first Matsuhisa location to be opened outside of Chef Nobu’s original Beverly Hills restaurant. Note: the upstairs and downstairs menus are different. For the full experience/larger menu, make sure you book downstairs. We celebrated my in-laws’ anniversary here as it was three days after our wedding!
Poppycock’s ($$) - This is a casual breakfast spot and an Aspen staple. They serve diner classics like eggs Benedict and their world-famous buttermilk pancakes. It’s always packed, but tables turn over quickly and they have some outdoor seating.
Jour De Fête ($) - This is one of the few breakfast spots open early (6:30 am on weekdays, 7 am on weekends) if you’re looking to grab food and coffee to go before getting an early start on a hike. They serve breakfast all day (including breakfast burritos, breakfast sandwiches, and pastries) and also have lunch sandwiches/salads.
WET Deck at the W Aspen ($$) - The WET Deck, located on the rooftop of the W Hotel, is a great spot for drinks and light bites. Take the elevator to the rooftop and walk past the pool. There you’ll find a bar with ample seating and 360° views of Aspen Mountain and downtown.
J-Bar at the Hotel Jerome ($$-$$$) - While I stand by my claim that Ajax Tavern has the best burger in Aspen, the J-Bar is an awesome spot for a cocktail. The Hotel Jerome (an Auberge Resort; book with me for exclusive perks here!) is beautiful and what chic western dreams are made of, and The Garden is a lovely spot for an outdoor lunch.
Silver City ($$) - This relatively new saloon is a great spot for post-dinner drinks. There’s not much in the way of food, but their cocktails are delicious and they frequently have live music. We kicked off our wedding weekend here by having any guests that were already in town meet up with us for a drink.
Things to Do in Aspen in the Summer
Hike to one of the many high alpine lakes - The best part of hiking in Colorado (in my opinion) is being rewarded with a stunning high alpine lake after a tough climb. And the Aspen area has 21 of them! Not only are they a great spot to take a break and enjoy a sandwich with Voodoo chips (from Grateful Deli of course), but a lot of them also hold fish. It should go without saying to make sure you pack plenty of water on any of these hikes. I’ve rounded up my favorites below:
Maroon Bells - Maroon Bells had been on my bucket list for years, long before we moved to Colorado. Ever since I saw the iconic photos of the peaks reflecting on Maroon Lake, I’d been itching to visit. I’ve now visited the Bells in every season except winter, during which they can only be accessed via snowshoe, cross-country skiing, or via a snowmobile tour from T-Lazy-7 Ranch. Another thing to add to my own bucket list! Also, make sure you don’t just stop at Maroon Lake but also do the hike up to Crater Lake. It’s only 3.5 miles roundtrip and takes you to another beautiful high-alpine lake. If you’d like to drive your own car to the Bells, you must have a reservation and enter before 8:00 am (and leave by 4:30 pm). We always choose to drive our own car, especially because sunrise is the best time to visit (this is the only time of day the Bells actually turn maroon!) Otherwise, you can take a shuttle from Aspen Highlands. You can book parking and shuttle reservations here (and be sure to make a parking reservation well in advance). Maroon Bells also holds an extremely special place in my heart: it’s where my husband proposed (and Boris was there too!)
Cathedral Lake - I love this hike and this lake. It’s only 5.4 miles roundtrip, but 2,070 ft of elevation gain. I told my parents it wasn’t too hard (they did it for their 40th anniversary the day after our wedding!) and my mom said we have very different interpretations of hard. Regardless, the leg (and lung) burn is worth it for another stunning high-alpine lake that’s surrounded by wildflowers in late July. Because it’s a tougher hike, the trail usually isn’t too crowded. And there are gorgeous cutthroat trout in Cathedral Lake! My husband has tried to catch one at least three times and has yet to be successful, even as an experienced fly fisherman. Because the water is so incredibly clear, they are smart and move fast! Cathedral Lake is accessed off of Castle Creek Road (if you reach Pine Creek Cookhouse, you’ve gone too far).
American Lake - Also found off Castle Creek Road is another hike to another beautiful high-alpine lake. It’s 6.8 miles roundtrip and 2,043 ft of elevation gain, so it’s a little easier than the hike to Cathedral Lake. I personally find the view of Cathedral Lake to be more impressive, but the fish in American Lake are a lot easier to catch!
Anderson Lake - If you’re looking for a high-alpine lake with turquoise water and next to no other hikers on the trail, definitely check this one out. I’ll be honest: the road to get there is rough. We came here after we had moved to Vermont and were sure to rent a high-clearance, 4WD vehicle at the Denver airport. Even in that, this was some of the gnarliest off-roading we’ve done and we eventually decided to park the car and walk the rest of Lincoln Creek Road to the trailhead. The hike wasn’t hard though (4.1 miles roundtrip and 1,122 ft of elevation gain) and it was all worth it to see Anderson Lake. It’s probably the most turquoise lake I’ve seen in Colorado and you guessed it: there were fish (that my husband caught!) Lincoln Creek Road is accessed off of Independence Pass.
Fly fish the Fryingpan River - The Fryingpan is probably one of my favorite rivers we’ve ever fished. It flows through a gorgeous red rock canyon and we’ve had plenty of days where the fly fishing is literally like shooting fish in a barrel. We love getting a guide from Frying Pan Anglers (located in Basalt). Speaking of Basalt, that’s a gorgeous little town about 30 minutes from Aspen and it’s our dream to own a house there one day. After a day out on the river, be sure to hit up the The Tipsy Trout (in the same plaza as the Frying Pan Anglers shop) for some food and drinks, or the Woody Creek Tavern on your drive back to Aspen.
Hike or ride the Silver Queen Gondola to the top of Aspen Mountain - The views from the top of Aspen Mountain (the one whose base is right in town) are jaw-dropping, and you can admire them while enjoying lunch and drinks at the Sundeck. I’ve opted to hike up twice and I will say it is relentlessly steep but a great workout; you gain 3,267 feet in 3.1 miles. To start the hike, you pick up the Little Nell Trail near the base of the Silver Queen Gondola and up (and up and up) you go. Then you’ll pick up the West Side Trail and take that all the way to the Sundeck, where you’ll enjoy a much-deserved beer and mountain of food. Do yourself a favor and take the gondola on the way down (it’s free). If you take it up, it’s $37 for a ticket (free for kids 6 and under)…so maybe an incentive to do the hike after all! Hot tip: try to get a red gondola. They have bluetooth speakers!
Downhill mountain bike at Snowmass - What’s a great way to test a new marriage? By going downhill mountain biking at the Snowmass Bike Park with your spouse. I had never done legit mountain biking before, and these trails will really get your adrenaline pumping (I should have known what we were in for when they suited us up in full padding and the most intense helmets.) With all that said, I had an absolute blast. It only took two rides up in the Elk Camp Gondola and two trails down to leave me exhausted (your hands get so tired from all the braking!)
Golf at Aspen Golf Club - This is a beautiful municipal course just outside of downtown Aspen. The food at the Red Mountain Grill is great (think salads, burgers, and sandwiches), and you get great views from their patio (and throughout the whole course).
Things to Do in Aspen in the Winter
Ski one (or all of) the Aspen Snowmass mountains - Aspen Snowmass is made up of four ski mountains: Aspen Mountain (located in downtown Aspen), Aspen Highlands (where the famous Highlands Bowl is), Buttermilk, and Snowmass. I’ve skied both Aspen Mountain and Aspen Highlands, and we were lucky enough to have some of the best powder days of our lives. A few things to note:
If you have the Ikon Pass or the Ikon Base Plus Pass, you get up to 7 or 5 days respectively at Aspen Snowmass. Note that lift reservations are required.
Try to ski (Aspen Highlands especially) on a weekday. If you want to hike/ski the iconic Highlands Bowl (which is a must in my opinion!), there is only one way out when you’re done. On a weekend powder day, the line at the Deep Temerity chairlift can be insane (this happened to us).
Aspen Mountain (also referred to as Ajax) is long and steep. There’s no beginner terrain and therefore is best skied on a powder day.
Get a custom hat from Kemo Sabe - Technically we did this in the summer, but this is an activity that can be enjoyed year-round. And getting a Kemo Sabe hat is truly an experience. We decided to buy them as our wedding gifts for each other and they’ll remind us of the best weekend of our lives forever. That being said, they are an investment, but totally worth it in my opinion (and pretty badass). You pick your hat, band, and can brand it with your initials (or whatever you want really). They also sell Leatherandvodka’s gorgeous Louis Vuitton bags with a western flair, and they’re the only company authorized to enhance their bags. Everyone that works at Kemo Sabe is so friendly and fun, and you get to enjoy a drink in your new gear afterwards.
Sleigh ride to Pine Creek Cookhouse - See Where to Drink & Eat in Aspen section for more detail. This is on my bucket list!
Go to a concert at Belly Up - You can do this in the summer too, but be sure to check their calendar to see if your favorite artist is coming to this intimate concert venue. Tickets sell out fast, so plan to look well in advance.
Helpful Aspen Tips
Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate! The town of Aspen sits at 7,900 feet above sea level (and obviously a lot of famous attractions/hikes are even higher), and it’s incredibly easy to get dehydrated. Drink plenty of water (even more than you think you need), and if you find yourself getting short of breath, you can buy canned oxygen at the grocery store.
Speaking of high elevation, start your hikes early! A good rule of thumb is to aim to be at the summit/turnaround point by 12 pm. Why? Because afternoon thunderstorms are super common in the mountains. And though they are usually quick, it is incredibly dangerous to be at such high elevations when there’s lightning. If you see ominous clouds rolling in, descend and move to lower ground immediately. Even if you don’t make it to the summit/your intended destination, it’s better to turn around and be safe and try the hike again another time.
Use the Downtowner to get around Aspen, especially during ski season. It’s a free, on-demand ride service provided by the City of Aspen that will take you anywhere within their service area. You can request rides through their app.
Judging by the length of this travel guide, I’m guessing it’s pretty easy to see how much I love Aspen. While I might be biased, you don’t have to experience a major life event in this town to love it too! The stunning scenery, delicious food, and endless options for outdoor activities keep me (and millions of other people) coming back for more. In case you didn’t find what you’re looking for, reach out to me for more Aspen recommendations! Here are some other favorite photos and memories from Aspen over the years: