Capri Travel Guide

Sep 13

Heaven on Earth on Italy’s Island in the Sun

You know the saying “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”? Well, there’s a reason millions of people flock to Capri every year. Between its dramatic limestone and sandstone cliffs and rock formations, luxurious shops, restaurants, and accommodations, and turquoise blue water, Capri really is heaven on earth. It also has held and will always hold a very special place in my heart. My parents celebrated their 25th wedding anniversary here, which inspired me to visit it for the first time when I was studying abroad in 2011. I finally returned with my husband in 2024 to celebrate our three-year wedding anniversary, and I was delighted to see Capri still holds the same charm. It is absolutely worth adding this idyllic island to your dream Italy itinerary.

A Few Things to Note

Capri was our first stop on our one-week Amalfi coast itinerary (we headed to Ravello afterwards)
We stayed for four nights and felt like that was sufficient to experience what we wanted to, although I was truly gutted to leave (Capri has that kind of magic!)
Capri is reachable by ferry and no cars are allowed on the island, but it’s incredibly walkable; you can also grab open-air taxis in the town center to get to Anacapri, down to Marina Grande, etc. (they are so cool and worth experiencing!)
Yes, Capri can be glitzy and you’ll witness staggering amounts of wealth almost everywhere you go. However, you don’t have to spend a fortune to visit the island and appreciate its natural beauty.

Best Time to Visit Capri

If you’re looking for warm/sunbathing weather (but not unbearably hot) and fewer crowds, I’d recommend visiting Capri in the shoulder seasons (late May or early September). We went in early September and had weather in the low 80s. I strongly advise making restaurant reservations/booking excursions a few months in advance as there were still plenty of people on the island, but we were able to get seated at some popular restaurants without advanced reservations.

How to Get to Capri

We flew into Naples (direct on Delta from John F. Kennedy International Airport in New York), took a taxi to the Molo Beverello port (about 30 euro and 20-30 minutes depending on traffic), and hopped on the high-speed ferry to Capri. Once on the island, our hotel transported our bags for us and we took the funicolare (cable car) from Marina Grande to the main piazzetta in Capri town. A few things to note:

There is no need to book the Napoli-Capri ferry in advance. Especially if you’re flying into Naples right before, wait to see if your flight is on time, how long it takes to collect your luggage, etc. From the time we landed, went through customs, got our checked bag, and took a taxi to Molo Beverello, it was about 1.5 hours total. There was no line to buy ferry tickets and there was plenty of time to catch/room on the 9:30 am high-speed ferry to Capri, even on a Saturday (August 31st to be exact).
If you’re coming to Capri just for the day, don’t just stay in Marina Grande! I’ve heard some people make the mistake of taking the ferry over and then never making it up to the main town center. Be sure to get away from the hustle and bustle of Marina Grande and take the funicolare (about 2 euro each way, ticket office can be found to the right of the ferry port-ask if you can’t find it!) up to the Piazzetta di Capri, Anacapri, etc. But I’ll of course tell you that one day isn’t enough time on this heavenly island.
If your hotel offers luggage assistance, take it! Even in the shoulder seasons, it’s hot on Capri. And even though you can take the funicolare up to the main town center where most accommodations are, it can be a pain to carry/roll luggage through the winding streets and crowds. My husband and I are in great shape and welcomed the help from Villa Brunella.

Where to Stay in Capri

Speaking of Hotel Villa Brunella, do yourself a favor and make sure you book a room here. My husband and I made it a point to check out the grounds of multiple hotels around the island and Villa Brunella has, without a doubt, the best view. When we first arrived, it truly took my breath away. And better yet, it’s one of the more affordable luxury hotels on the island. A lot of places will run you well over $1,000 per night for a standard room (often without a sea view), and we paid $700 per night for a massive room with a spacious balcony and sea view.

The hotel is away from the hustle and bustle of the main piazzetta but an easy (and scenic!) walk. It's set into the hillside, so the higher up room you book, the better view you’ll have. However, as I mentioned above, our room still had an incredible view and the views from the pool, sunbathing deck, and restaurant are stunning. Long story short: there’s no need to splurge for the most expensive room.

Watching a storm cloud roll in from our room's private terrace

Besides the jaw-dropping view, the two things that stood out to us most from Hotel Villa Brunella were the service and the restaurant, L’Agave (more on that in the next section). Every single member of the hotel staff—from the front desk people that greeted us upon check-in and toured us around the grounds to the people working by the pool bar and restaurant—were incredibly kind and attentive. They made us feel right at home from the moment we arrived and gave us so many great recommendations throughout our stay.

Where to Eat & Drink in Capri

L’Agave ($$$) This restaurant is special. It sits on the top-most level of Hotel Villa Brunella and has the most insane view. Do yourself (another) favor and be sure to make a dinner reservation here a few months in advance.

We requested a 7:00 pm window-front table and we had the best seat in the house to watch the sun go down over the island. The food was divine: they brought out some complimentary antipasti fritti (fried appetizers) and we ordered “Il risotto a Villa Brunella,” a delicious seafood risotto dish. When the sun sets, they open up all of the windows for diners to breathe in the fresh sea air and admire the twinkling lights below. This was our favorite meal and most memorable dining experience from our entire time on Capri.

Da Paolino ($$$) Though a little touristy, I think it’s worth a visit to check out the lemon trees restaurant. Plus, you can take an open-air taxi from the town center which is an experience in and of itself! There are lemon trees literally everywhere and plenty of lemon-themed cocktails, entrees, and desserts. Besides the atmosphere, the real highlight of visiting Da Paolino is the infamous dessert room. It’s an all-you-can-eat dessert buffet featuring tiramisu, torta caprese (flourless chocolate torte), delizia al limone (lemon delight), and more. In other words, don’t go too crazy with ordering antipasti and entrees and save room for dessert! Advanced reservations recommended.

La Fontelina ($$$) I’d been dying to go to this restaurant ever since I purchased Gray Malin’s Italy. When we went, beach club reservations were only available if you booked three consecutive days. We didn’t feel it was necessary to do this as we had a pool (and the best view!) at Villa Brunella. However, you can still make a lunch reservation without reserving a spot at the beach club. The setting is beautiful: the covered dining area is built directly into the rocky coastline, and you have views of the Faraglioni, Marina Piccola, and the superyachts anchored in the harbor. Be sure to order a dish with fresh seafood (I got the seafood risotto and my husband got a lobster pasta special). You can take their shuttle boat from Marina Piccola, but I recommend the long winding path along Via Tragara and Via Faraglioni. It’s a steep walk back and the first part is in the sun, but it’s worth it to work off the food (and wine) and you get some killer views along the way! Advanced reservations recommended (especially if you’re walking there!)

Ristorante Panorama ($$-$$$) We decided to keep a couple of nights free of restaurant reservations so we could get some recommendations from locals/our hotel. After doing some shopping and enjoying aperitivo in the piazzetta, we made our way to Ristorante Panorama upon recommendation from a store owner. We got there 10 minutes before they opened for dinner at 7:00 pm and good thing; a line quickly formed behind us! Still, they seated us without a reservation and the setting was lovely. Panoramic (duh) views of the sea and Mount Vesuvius off in the distance and delicious Neapolitan-style pizza made for a wonderful, impromptu meal.

Ristorante Panorama (and Mount Vesuvius in the distance)

Ristorante Buca di Bacco ($$) We went here for dinner on our last night on Capri upon recommendation from Villa Brunella. While it was the most affordable meal on our trip, it’s clearly a local favorite: they couldn’t seat us until 9:00 pm (which just meant more aperitivo-hopping for us)! It was well worth the wait, though: delicious Neapolitan-style pizza in a cozy atmosphere. Multiple locals told us Panorama or Buca di Bacco have the best pizza on Capri.

Bar Tiberio ($$) Go here for aperitivo! It’s right in the heart of the piazzetta and perfect for people-watching while enjoying an Aperol spritz (or two) and some light bites. This trip (and this bar) actually turned me into an olive fan for life.
Il Piccolo ($$) Another great spot for aperitivo, enjoying a cappuccino, and people-watching in the heart of the piazzetta.
Capri Rooftop ($$$) A beautiful setting for (slightly overpriced) aperitivo. Their Aperol spritzes are delicious though and their views of the Faraglioni are gorgeous.

Things to Do in Capri

Private Boat Tour Around the Island - Whether you’re visiting Capri for your honeymoon, a romantic getaway, or a trip with family or friends, you have to see the island from the water. We booked a four-hour private boat tour on a classic caprese gozzo through our hotel and it was one of the highlights of the trip. Four hours was plenty of time to see the sights: the Faraglioni, countless caves, and the Blue Grotto. While some travel sites will say the Blue Grotto is touristy and not worth the extra 18 euro/wait times, I could not disagree more. From having to lay down in the rowboat to make it through the tiny entrance to seeing the other-worldly, glowing blue water, visiting the Grotto is a memorable (and almost spiritual) experience. We opted for a morning tour (10 am-2 pm) and that was plenty of time to see the whole island and not wait too long to go into the Blue Grotto. Hot tip: bring your own food and alcohol. Villa Brunella was kind enough to pack us to-go sandwiches, but they did let us know that the alcohol that’s sold on the boat is overpriced and not the best quality. Soft drinks and bottled water are complimentary!

Exploring caves on our private boat tour

Hike Up Monte Solaro (+ Explore Anacapri) - This is the highest point on Capri and has stunning views of the island, Faraglioni, Amalfi Coast, and more. I took the chairlift from Anacapri when I visited in 2011, but we decided to hike to the top this time to work off all of the delicious food and spritzes we’d been consuming. To get to Anacapri from the Capri town center, we took an open-air taxi up the steep, winding roads (it’s worth it to not wait in line for the bus). Once in Anacapri center, it’s a little hard to find the start of the trail. We asked the bus station for directions and they told us to find the street that’s “very climb.” To get to the trailhead, go past the chairlift station, past the cemetery, and take the first street on your left that’s “very climb” (a steep uphill). It’s less than 1.5 miles to the top, and you can take the chairlift down (which I recommend—it’s fun!). Note: buy your return chairlift ticket at the station at the bottom before starting your hike and specify you only need one way (11 euro). Also, bring water: it’s hot!

Giardini Di Augusto - It only costs one euro to visit these beautiful gardens set high above the sea that were once believed to house an ancient Roman villa. Go in the morning before it gets too hot and for unobstructed views of the Faraglioni and Via Krupp. Unfortunately, Via Krupp was closed when we went due to falling rock/ maintenance, but I did have the chance to take the long path down to Marina Piccola when I visited in 2011. Pop into Carthusia (famous perfume factory) on your way back to learn about its history and sample some divine scents.

Helpful Capri Tips

Tipping is not the norm in Italy. However, if you had exceptional service or really enjoyed your meal, a 10% tip is greatly appreciated.
You won’t find sandy beaches on Capri. The coastline is rocky and the ocean is mostly accessible via paid beach clubs (La Fontelina, Da Luigi, Lido Del Faro, etc.). If you don’t want to pay to rent chairs and an umbrella every day, try to book a hotel with a pool (like Villa Brunella) or be sure to book a boat tour where you’ll make lots of stops to take dips in the sparkling sea.

Capri is incredibly beautiful, romantic, and magical. Those who have been understand how easy it is to be captivated by its charm. I hope you get to experience it, and don’t hesitate to reach out to me for more recommendations! Here are some more favorite photos from our trip:

Aerial view of Via Krupp from Giardini Di Augusto

Wandering through the streets of Capri at sunset

Exploring caves on our private boat tour around the island

Natalie Gale

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