umVangati House, Blyde River Canyon, South Africa

South Africa’s Most Majestic Mammals and Views

I’m fully aware I’m not the first person to tell you to add an African safari to your bucket list. But I might be the first person who’s told you to add Blyde River Canyon ASAP. No trip to South Africa is complete without a safari, and if you’re heading all the way to this northeastern corner of the country, then you should also visit Blyde River Canyon.

My husband and I always knew we wanted to go on a safari (this was actually our first big international trip together just the two of us before we were married!), and we quickly found a top-rated, luxury lodge we wanted to stay in. But thanks to The Rough Guide to South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland (here’s the most recent edition) and a recommended Instagram post, we decided to explore the area further. For the ultimate safari experience, luxurious accommodations, incredibly attentive service, and the most gorgeous off-the-beaten-path sunsets, be sure to add Blyde River Canyon and Kruger National Park to your dream South Africa itinerary.

Luxury Safari Kruger National Park | Travel Bug — Male leopard, Lion Sands Game Reserve, Kruger National Park

A Few Things to Note

Blyde River Canyon and Kruger National Park were two stops on our two-week vacation to South Africa, and part of (what I believe to be) a dream two-week South Africa itinerary.
Be sure to check out the Cape Town and Hermanus & Franschhoek guides for where else to explore in South Africa.
I chose to group Blyde River Canyon and Kruger National Park together because they are two can’t-miss places in northeastern South Africa and I’d recommend visiting them back-to-back.

Best Time to Visit Blyde River Canyon & Kruger National Park

The best time to visit South Africa is in the spring, during the months of September, October, or November. This is a great time to visit because the temperatures begin to warm up, there is minimal rain, and you’ll find fewer crowds/lower prices than the summer months/high season (December-February). We visited from end of September to mid-October, and had perfect weather and prime wildlife viewing conditions everywhere we went.

October temperatures in Blyde River Canyon range from the high 70s/low 80s (Fahrenheit) during the day to the high 50s/low 60s at night. This is the dry season, so there is minimal rain, but you may experience a stray thunderstorm or shower. We actually watched a pretty incredible lightning storm during dinner while we were staying here!

October is also dry season in Kruger National Park, so it’s hot during the day (80s/90s) and cools down a bit at night (60s). The dry season is considered the best time for wildlife viewing because vegetation is thinner and animals gather at watering holes. And I can attest to that…we saw each of the Big 5 (lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino)!

How to Get to Blyde River Canyon & Kruger National Park

The closest airport to Blyde River Canyon is Eastgate Airport (HDS) in Hoedspruit. The only airlines that fly into here are Cemair and Airlink, which both offer nonstop flights from Johannesburg (JNB) and Cape Town (CPT). The flight time is 55 minutes and 2.5 hours, respectively. This is a tiny airport, and landing here was pretty incredible. We flew over giraffes on our descent!

Once you land in Hoedspruit, you’ll need to rent a car at the airport. Avis is the only rental company here, and since it’s a tiny airport, make sure you book your rental car well in advance. I would recommend booking a trip to South Africa at least a year in advance to secure the best accommodations and experiences, so book your rental car then. The drive from the airport to umVangati House (my accommodation recommendation—more on this later!) is about 45 minutes.

The drive from umVangati House to Kruger National Park depends on where you’re staying. The closest entrance (Orpen Gate) is about an hour’s drive, and Lion Sands Game Reserve (my accommodation recommendation in Kruger—more on this later!) is about 2.5 hours. The drive is perfectly safe if you’re on the lookout for potholes and don’t stop in random areas to sightsee or rest. If you do need to pull over, make sure it’s at a restaurant or somewhere with a lot of activity.

The good news is there is a small airport in Kruger that you can fly out of to other parts of South Africa or to go home. Airlink is the only airline that operates out of Skukuza Airport (SZK), and they offer nonstop flights to Cape Town and Johannesburg. It’s small, so be sure to book your flights well in advance. With that being said, Skukuza is a really nice little airport since it’s partially owned by Lion Sands! It’s beautifully decorated and has a retail boutique, coffee shop, bar, and comfortable lounge area. It made saying goodbye to our incredible two-week South African adventure a little bit easier!

Where to Stay in Blyde River Canyon

umVangati House is without a doubt one of my favorite hotels we’ve ever stayed in. Technically it’s a privately owned guesthouse with just seven rooms and it’s owned and run by a lovely couple (Giel and Lidia). They cook all of your meals and will invite you down into their wine cellar to select a bottle of wine to pair with dinner (you can even have a private meal in here too!) As I mentioned above, it’s a 45-minute drive from the Eastgate Airport in Hoedspruit, and about an hour and 20 minutes to Blyde River Canyon (more on that later).

Best Hotel in South Africa | Travel Bug — umVangati House, Blyde River Canyon, South Africa

On top of the incredible and attentive service, what really sets umVangati House apart is their stunning view. It’s remote luxury at its finest; I loved lounging by the pool and sipping on a glass of wine at sunset while being mesmerized by the view of the Blyde Canyon, with no buildings or structures dotting the horizon. They even have their own watering hole on the property, and we loved watching baboons flock to it during the day. As I mentioned above, one of my fondest memories from our trip to South Africa was eating dinner on umVangati’s covered deck while watching a lightning storm.

Speaking of dinner, the food is delicious. Breakfast is included, and lunch and dinner are an additional cost/available upon request (but everything was so reasonable). Just give them a heads up if you plan to dine with them that night. The owners also made us cocktails to enjoy poolside. I really cannot say enough good things about umVangati House, and I would love to go back someday!

Not a bad spot for breakfast! (umVangati House, Blyde River Canyon)

Things to Do in Blyde River Canyon

Best view in South Africa | Travel Bug — Blyde River Canyon, South Africa

Visit the Blyde River Canyon! It’s the third largest canyon in the world, after the Grand Canyon in the United States and the Fish River Canyon in Namibia. It’s also the largest green canyon (because of its lushness) in the world. It’s a scenic hour and twenty minute drive from umVangati House, and there’s a small entrance fee to visit the Nature Reserve that houses the canyon (R35 or ~$2). Just driving along the Panorama Route through the reserve is spectacular, but the must-see attractions are below. Note that food options in the park are scarce, so eat a hearty breakfast before you go, bring water and snacks, and plan on a late lunch when you get back to umVangati House.

Three Rondavels - If you’re coming from umVangati House, the first site you’ll pass is the Three Rondavels Viewing Point. A rondavel is a traditional African hut, and these beehive-like rock formations tower 2,296 feet over the Blyde River below. This is one of the most unique and magnificent views in all of South Africa.

Things to Do in Blyde River Canyon | Travel Bug — Three Rondavels, Blyde River Canyon, South Africa

Bourke’s Luck Potholes - As you continue down the Panorama Route, you’ll come across the Bourke’s Luck Potholes. Found at the confluence of the Blyde (also know as Happy) and the Treur (also known as Sorrow) Rivers, swirling whirlpools and erosion formed these cylindrical holes in the rock.

Bourke’s Luck Potholes, Blyde River Canyon, South Africa

God’s Window - Less than 30 minutes down the Panorama Route from Bourke’s Luck Potholes, you’ll find God’s Window, a beautiful viewpoint from which you can see across Kruger National Park and to the Lebombo Mountains on a clear day. From here, you can either drive back the way you came to umVangati House or continue south through Graskop and back a different way. Both routes take about one hour and fifty minutes.

God’s Window, Blyde River Canyon, South Africa

Hike or take a scenic boat ride - While these are three of the most popular attractions in Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve, there are plenty of hiking trails and other ways to explore the canyon’s waterfalls, miles of lush vegetation, and wildlife (there’s great bird watching). We were anxious to get back to umVangati House and maximize our time there, but thought about doing a Blyde Dam boat cruise to see the canyon from a different perspective. You can book a tour through Blyde Canyon Safaris or Blyde Canyon Adventure Centre.

Where to Stay in Kruger National Park

At 7,523 square miles, Kruger National Park is one of Africa’s biggest game reserves. While you can drive through the park on your own, I think it’s best explored by staying in one of its luxury lodges, especially the first time you visit. On top of incredible service and high-end accommodations, staying in a luxury lodge gives you private access to certain areas of the park, well away from the public vehicles/crowds. After a lot of research, we landed on Lion Sands Game Reserve, and booked a suite in their Narina Lodge.

Best Safari Lodge Kruger National Park | Travel Bug — Narina Lodge, Lion Sands Game Reserve, Kruger National Park, South Africa

As I mentioned above, Skukuza Airport is just 25 minutes from the Narina Lodge, so this is the fastest way to get in or out. Lion Sands has four lodges and two private residences. When we visited in 2017, the River Lodge was closed due to a recent fire (luckily no one was harmed and the fire was quickly contained). It’s since reopened, and this is the most affordable and largest of the four lodges (it has 18 rooms and suites). Ivory Lodge is the most expensive since it’s comprised of eight spacious villas. We chose the Narina Lodge because it’s more intimate than the River Lodge (only nine suites) and we liked the design better than the Tinga Lodge. Tinga also has nine suites and is the same price per night, so it really comes down to personal preference! Tinga Lodge also has a main/shared pool, whereas Narina does not (this did not matter to us since our suite had a private plunge pool).

Our private plunge pool…spot the antelope! (Narina Lodge, Lion Sands)

Rates for a Narina Lodge suite start at $1,536.91 per person/night. While that might sound steep, here’s what’s included:

A spacious suite with a king bed, lounge area, bath tub (with views), outdoor shower, large deck, and private plunge pool. All suites have views of the Sabie River, and you can spot wildlife right from the comfort of your room! We saw hippos, elephants, crocodiles, and more while cooling off in our pool between game drives.
All meals
All soft drinks and a selection of beers, spirits, and house wines (you can pay more for premium brands if you’d like)
Coffee and tea
Two game drives daily with a FGASA (Field Guides of South Africa)-certified guide and tracker, refreshments, and snacks (more on this later)
Skukuza Airport transfers

Best Luxury Safari Lodge Kruger National Park | Travel Bug — Narina Lodge suite bathtub, Lion Sands Game Reserve, Kruger National Park

We stayed three nights at Lion Sands and, believe it or not, we felt like that was plenty. We went on six game drives and saw the Big 5 and a ton of other amazing animals. Plus, we wanted to explore the rest of the country (and only had so much PTO), so three nights felt like the perfect amount of time. If you want to be on safari for longer, I’d recommend combining two contrasting safari locations. Kruger National Park is the bush, so you might want to pair that with a safari on the plains for more diverse habitats and wildlife.

Restaurant views of the Sabie River, Narina Lodge, Lion Sands Game Reserve

You can also book other special experiences through Lion Sands, such as staying in one of their treehouses (for an additional cost), enjoying spa treatments (we had in-room massages that were heavenly), private bush dinners, and more.

Thoughtful touches at Lion Sands Game Reserve, Kruger National Park

Things to Do in Kruger National Park

Eat, relax, safari, repeat! As I mentioned, staying at a luxury safari lodge gives you private access to certain areas of the park where you can enjoy your twice daily game drives. Lion Sands’ private reserve is over 30,000 acres and is home to the highest and most diverse concentration of wildlife in the southern hemisphere.

Morning game drive, Lion Sands Game Reserve, Kruger National Park

Each open-air safari vehicle seats six guests, but you can book a private drive for an additional cost. We personally loved meeting people from all over the world! The vehicles can handle some crazy terrain (we drove over several small trees), and the guides are so knowledgable. It was amazing how one minute you’d be driving along and out of seemingly nowhere, the tracker would signal to the driver to stop and take a sharp turn deep into the bush. Minutes later, you’d find yourself just feet from a leopard or pride of lions. It’s the ultimate bucket-list experience. And don’t worry; it’s completely safe! For starters, animals think that a safari vehicle is a big animal or object that is neither predator nor prey. And the trackers and guides really know what they’re doing. At one point, a large bull elephant started to charge towards our vehicle, but our experienced guides knew exactly what to do to get him to back off. It was wild (literally!)

Best Safari in South Africa | Travel Bug — Giraffe selfie, Lion Sands Game Reserve, Kruger National Park

Here’s what a typical day at Lion Sands looks like:

Morning Safari - You’ll depart at either 5:30 or 6:30 am for a three-hour sunrise game drive, where you’ll see nocturnal animals heading back to bed and others heading out to hunt. Not a bad place for your coffee!
Eat & Relax - After your morning drive, you’ll return to the lodge where you have all day to do whatever you please. The food at Lion Sands is delicious, and they serve everything from breakfast classics like Eggs Benedict to contemporary South African cuisine paired with South African wines. While you can partake in activities like complimentary bush walks, it’s so nice to relax on your private deck or cool off in your private plunge pool (remember, it gets hot during the day!), especially after the early wake up. Take a bath, followed by a snooze, and wake up just in time to spot a hippo crossing the Sabie River, all from the comfort of your room. As I mentioned above, you can also visit the spa or enjoy in-room massages.

Spotting elephants from our private deck! (Lion Sands Game Reserve)

Afternoon Safari - You’ll depart at either 4:00 or 4:30 pm and kick things off with a sunset bush happy hour. That has to be the coolest place I’ve ever had a drink! As the light fades, the night sky fills with countless stars (probably more than I’ve seen anywhere else in my life) while you look for wildlife in the dark. We saw a huge herd of elephants on one of our evening game drives (including that grumpy bull elephant)!

Bush happy hour, Lion Sands Game Reserve, Kruger National Park

Sunset elephant encounter, Lion Sands Game Reserve, Kruger National Park

Eat (again) - Following your second game drive, you’ll return to the lodge where you can enjoy dinner on Narina’s gorgeous deck, which is built into the trees and lit up by lanterns everywhere. On our last night, we had an African boma dinner (under-the-stars dining enclosed by tall reeds) with all of the guides and other guests. It was a memorable way to close out a once (but hopefully not!)-in-a-lifetime experience.

Helpful Safari Tips

Invest in a nice camera so your photos can (try) to do the wildlife justice. I got a Nikon D3400 and a 70-300mm zoom lens before our trip and I’m so glad I did. I know phone cameras have come a long way, but the zoom and single point focus capabilities of a nicer camera will take far better pictures. I’ve printed out quite a few that are framed and hanging in our house. So many friends and family were shocked to learn that I took the above leopard picture/didn’t buy it! I also thought bringing a GoPro was helpful for capturing pictures of the two of us, especially in Blyde River Canyon.
Tip your safari guide and tracker and leave a good review! Assuming you had a good experience, be sure to tip and leave reviews on Tripadvisor (or wherever the lodge recommends). We handed our tips to the Lion Sands manager at the end of our stay and specified who they were for. It’s totally up to you, but here are some suggested amounts to tip guides and trackers (in Rand):
- Guide: R250-400 per person per day
- Tracker: R120-300 per person per day
Pack layers! Even though the bush gets really hot during the day, you’ll start your morning drive and finish your afternoon drive when it’s dark out, and it does cool down. I was most comfortable in pants/athletic leggings and a tank top or t-shirt with a lightweight linen button down that I could put on and take off as needed. Also be sure to wear sensible footwear like sneakers or hiking shoes.

A safari is likely already on your dream South Africa itinerary, but hopefully you found these tips helpful and will consider adding a stop at umVangati House/Blyde River Canyon to your trip. South Africa’s landscape is so incredibly diverse, and it’s the definition of a bucket-list destination. Reach out to me if you need any other recommendations! Here are some more favorite pictures from our trip:

Spotting the Big 5 in Lion Sands Game Reserve, Kruger National Park